Below we will be recreating the hair sculpture, color and style. This sculpture is an increased layer form over solid perimeter lengths.
The picture below indicated where the two different scupltures are in relation ot the head. (Red - increased layer, Blue - Solid form.)
Lets Start with an hair analysis - This Client has long hair with medium density hair. She has a natural level 6/7 hair (Light brown/Dark blonde). To get her to the hair color above will be a combination of a full head of highlights, and lowlights to make the bright blonde pieces pop. We will do a root tap to help blend any harsh lines that may have happened while completing the highlighting process. Follow the steps below create this completed look!
Here is a list of the tools you will need to complete the coloring portion of this look:
Hair Clips/Section Clips
Rat Tail comb
Shampoo Comb
Tint bowls (3)
Tint Brushes (3)
Foils
Gloves
Waterproof cape
Neck strips
Wella Color Charm Toners in T10 Pale Blonde and T15 Lights Beige Blonde
Wella Color Charm Demi Permanent Hair Colors 6W (Dark Sand)/7N (Medium Natural blonde) for lowlights and root tap
Powder lightener
Volume 30 Developer for Lightener
Volume 10 Developer for Toner and Lowlights
STARTING THE COLOR PROCESS
Drape the client with a waterproof cape and neckstrip
Mix you powder lightener and volume 30 developer to manufacters directions
Mix you lowlight color (6W & 7N) with volume 10 developer at this as well
Brush and section the hair into 4 quadrants, center front hairline to nape and apex to the top of each ear.
Starting at the nape, take a 1-1 1/2 inch section and begin to weave the section
The top portion of the weaved section will get lightener, apply with foil underneath. Make sure the hair is completely saturated to ensure an even lift. Use the double folding techinque to lock the foil in place
The bottom portion of the weaved section will get the low light color, apply the color.
Use a brick lay pattern to highlight the back of the head as you work your way up, (This mean the foils should not stack up on eachother after each section. It should look the way bricks do when they are being stacked)
Continue steps 5-8 until the back of the head is complete
For the sides of the head: used diagonal partings of 1- 1/2 inch sections working from the bottom of the sides to the top.
Used the same Double locking foil techinque and weaving techinque through the sides and top of the head. Any hair left out of the foils will get the low light color as well.
Once the entire head is completed, Check a back foil to see how the lightening process is doing.
Let the hair process for 45 or until a level 10 is reached (Pale yellow color, like the inside of a banana.) Be sure to be checking the foils every 10-15 minuets so the hair doesn't get over processed.
Once a level 10 is reached for the foiled hair, begin removing the foils
Once all the foils are removed, rinse the hair in lukewarm water, making sure that all the lightner and lowlight color is thorughtly rinsed.
Using a shampoo comb brush the hair from ends to base to mak sure there are no tangles
Taking your lowlight color, begin tapping the roots all over the entire head in 1 inch sections, this will help blend any harsh lines that may have happened
Mix your toners T10 & T15 with volume 10 developer as per manufacter directions
Apply this tones all over the hair exept where the root tap was applied. Ensure the hair is completely saturated in toner
Used a shampoo comb to brush the toner through the entire head, this will also help with additonal blending.
Let toner sit for 10-15 minuets, checking evey 5 minuets until desired tone.
Once ready, rinse the hair in luke warm water. Shampoo and condition the hair right after.
Towel dry the hair (damp, but not dripping wet and get ready to begin the sculpture poriton of the look!
Here is a list of the tools you will need to complete the Sculpture potion of this look:
Hair Clips
Spray Bottle
Shears
Cutting cape
neck strip
Cutting comb
Shampoo Comb
(PART 1) Solid Form portion of the sculpture:
Brush the hair with the shampoo comb and begin to section the hair in to 4 quadrants, forhead to nape, and apex to each ear.
Position the head upright
Starting in the nape (our solid form sculpture) Take a small 1-inch horizontal section down the back of the nape; this will be your guide for solid form portion
Comb the hair down to natural distribution
Project the hair from natural fall.
With your fingers and shears parallel to the parting, begin to sculpt the hair.
You will use a stationary design line. This will create the form line for the Solid form sculpture. Be sure to check for symmetry and balance before proceeding.
Once the stationary design line is established, and the lengths are balanced, you will you use the design line to create the rest of the form as you work your way up on the head until you reach the top of the ears.
You have compeleted the solid form for this portion of the cut! Move on to the increased layer now
(Part 2) Increased Layer Form (Horizontal line)
Starting where you left off from the Solid form poriton of the sculpture, clip the solid form portion of the hair out of the way.
Keep the head in an upright positon
You will need to sculpt a lenght guide. Do this by parting a small section of hair at the center-front of the hairline, use natural fall and no projection. Sculpt the hair at the chin, this will be you length guide for the entire head now!
To establish the internal stationary guideline, sculpt a thin 2 inch center panel with projection straight up, finger and shear postion parallel to the floor(horizontally) and sculpt from the front hair line to apex.
You will use the conversion-layer techinque thorughtout the entire portion of the head.
Stand on the opposite side that the hair is being sculpted, take a 1 inch horizontal parting and distrubute straight up, bring hair to sculpted desgin line with finger and shear position will remain horizontal (parallel to the floor). Sculpt the hair on top of the fingers from front hair line to the back of the parting.
Follow steps 5-6 to use the conversion-layering techinque to complete the back of the head as well. (do not touch the solid form at all)
If the hair begins to dry out, spray the hair with the water bottle.
Once the entire head is sculpted, move on to the styling portion!
Here is a list of the tools you will need to complete the style portion of this look:
Blow dryer
Concentrator attachment (looks like a "V")
Hair Clips
Vent Brush
Wide tooth comb
Medium Round brush
Heat protectant
Shine spray
Light Hold hairspray
Hair oil
Root spray
How to style the hair (Blow out)
Using a wide tooth comb brush the hair to ensure there are no tangles
Apply hair oil and heat protectant and brush thorught the hair with wide tooth comb
At the roots of the clients head, spray some root spray to give some addtional volume at the base
With a vent brush, beging doing a rough dry on the hair until hair is 80-85% dry
Once hair is at desired dryness, section the hair into two large section and clip away (center hairline to name) Leave a 2 inch section out to begin blow drying
Add Concentrator attachement to blow dryer.
Using a medium sized round brush, position the brush underneath hair to create some base lift. ALWAYS Direct airflow to follow cuticle of hair
Start by drying base, midstrand, then ends, Rotate brush upward from ends in a rolling motion
Allow hair to cool before removing round brush ( you can help by adding a shot of cold air to the hair while blow drying!)
It is important to work from center to each side to avoid any splits that might happen in the hair.
Work upwards using steps 7-10 to complete the blow out.
Once you have completed the blow out, apply a light hold hairspray and some shine spray to the hair to keep the shape and add additonal shine to the hair
You have completed this style!
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